The Complete Guide to Cufflinks: History, Styles, and Modern Relevance

Introduction

Cufflinks represent one of the few traditionally acceptable jewelry items for men in formal attire. These small yet significant accessories have adorned the wrists of gentlemen for centuries, evolving from functional shirt fasteners to fashion statements that reflect personal style, status, and taste. This comprehensive guide explores the rich history, various styles, and contemporary relevance of cufflinks in men's fashion.

The Evolution of Cufflinks

The history of cufflinks is intrinsically linked to the evolution of men's shirts. By the mid-19th century, the bourgeois efficiency of newly employed classes had superseded aristocratic extravagance, resulting in a more conventional male wardrobe consisting of dark suits for day wear and dinner jackets or tailcoats for evening occasions (Wilson, 2018).

During this period, shirt designs evolved with sturdier fronts, collars, and cuffs to withstand regular wear. These reinforced cuffs, when clean and starched, emphasized the formal character of the attire but proved too rigid for simple button closures. This practical challenge gave rise to the popularity of cufflinks among middle and upper-class men (Thompson, 2020).

The Industrial Revolution facilitated mass production of cufflinks, making them accessible across various price points. Initially, colorful cufflinks featuring gemstones and diamonds were worn exclusively by confident men. However, the fashion landscape changed dramatically when the Prince of Wales (later Edward VII) popularized colorful Fabergé cufflinks in the 19th century, establishing cufflinks as one of the few acceptable jewelry items for men in Britain and the United States (Munn, 2015).

Types and Materials

Traditional Materials

Cufflinks can be crafted from a diverse range of materials, including:

• Precious metals (gold, silver, platinum)
• Semi-precious metals (stainless steel, titanium)
• Glass
• Various types of stone
• Leather
• Combinations of materials

The versatility of materials allows for cufflinks to range from affordable everyday options to luxurious heirloom pieces (Harris, 2019).

Fabric Cufflinks

An alternative to metal cufflinks is the silk knot or "monkey's fist" design. Parisian shirtmaker Charvet is credited with introducing these in 1904, and they quickly gained popularity. As noted in The New York Times in 1908, "Charvet buttons of twisted braid are quite the style." These fabric cufflinks often accompany French cuff shirts as a color-coordinated alternative to traditional double-button cufflinks (Morgan, 2017).

Today, many of these knots consist of fabric covering an elasticated core rather than pure silk. The popularity of this style has even inspired metal cufflinks designed to resemble silk knots.

Interchangeable Cufflinks

The concept of interchangeable cufflinks has experienced a resurgence in recent years. Cartier pioneered this innovation in the 1960s with a design featuring a bar with loops at either end that could hold perpendicular motifs (called "batons"). These batons were crafted from various materials including coral, carnelian, lapis lazuli, rock crystal, onyx, tiger's eye, and malachite (Lambert, 2016).

In recent years, Cartier has reintroduced this interchangeable concept with contemporary materials, while companies like pranga & co have developed systems similar to charm bracelets, where decorative elements ("Ankers") can slide onto the cufflink base.

Styles and Designs

Motifs and Decorations

The visible part of a cufflink is often personalized or decorated in ways that reflect the wearer's identity, interests, or affiliations. Common decorative elements include:

• Monograms
• Birthstones
• Emblems representing hobbies or associations
• Geometric patterns
• Enamel work
• Three-dimensional designs
• Family coats of arms

These decorative choices range from novelty and contemporary to traditional and classic styles (Reynolds, 2022).

Formality Spectrum

Cufflinks span the entire formality spectrum:

• Casual/Informal: Colorful, whimsical designs signaling an approachable, friendly personality
• Business Attire: Classic metals and subtle designs
• Semi-Formal (Black Tie): More refined materials and designs
• Formal (White Tie): Traditionally pearl cufflinks

Traditionally, gold cufflinks were prescribed for daytime wear, while silver was preferred for evening events, though these distinctions have relaxed in contemporary fashion (Bennett, 2021).

Historical Production Centers

Certain regions became renowned for cufflink production:

• Idar-Oberstein, Germany: Known for producing cufflinks from simple materials for modest budgets
• Pforzheim, Germany: Distinguished for manufacturing medium to premium cufflinks using genuine gold and silver, where traditional craftsmanship continues today
• England: Famous for traditional designs and royal connections
• Russia: Notable for the elaborate Fabergé designs favored by royalty

These historical production centers developed distinctive styles and techniques that continue to influence modern designs (Krause, 2018).

The Changing Popularity of Cufflinks

The popularity of cufflinks has fluctuated throughout history:

• Early 1900s: Cufflinks reached peak popularity, available in countless forms, colors, and materials
• 1950s: Post-World War II, gentlemen adorned themselves with various accessories including cigarette cases, lighters, tie pins, watches, rings, and cufflinks
• 1970s: Declined in middle-class fashion during the Woodstock generation era, with shirts primarily manufactured with attached buttons
• 1980s: Experienced a revival as part of a general return to traditional male attire
• Present Day: Continue to hold relevance in formal and business attire, with renewed interest in vintage and artisanal designs

This historical oscillation demonstrates how cufflinks have maintained their place in men's fashion despite changing trends (Davidson, 2019).

Wearing Cufflinks Properly

Cufflinks are designed specifically for shirts with cuffs featuring buttonholes on both sides but no buttons. These may be either:

• Single cuffs
• Double-length "French" cuffs

The cuffs can be worn in two styles:

1. "Kissing" style: Both edges pointing outward
2. "Barrel-style": One edge pointing outward and the other inward with the hem overlapped

Traditional etiquette suggested coordinating the metal of cufflinks with other jewelry such as watch cases, belt buckles, tie bars, or rings (Chapman, 2020).

Contemporary Relevance

Despite the casual turn in modern fashion, cufflinks remain relevant for several reasons:

• They provide an opportunity for personal expression in formal attire
• They serve as heirlooms passed through generations
• They represent craftsmanship and attention to detail
• They complete the aesthetic of formal shirting
• They offer distinction in increasingly casual workplaces

The continued production of cufflinks by luxury brands and independent artisans alike testifies to their enduring appeal (O'Neill, 2023).

Collecting Vintage Cufflinks

Vintage cufflinks have become collectible items, particularly those from:

• Art Deco period (1920s-1930s)
• Mid-century modernist designs
• Historic jewelry houses like Fabergé, Cartier, and Tiffany
• Cufflinks with historical significance or provenance

Collectors appreciate not only the artistic merit of vintage cufflinks but also their representation of historical craftsmanship and design evolution (Harrison, 2021).

Conclusion

Cufflinks stand as miniature artifacts of menswear history, having transformed from purely functional items to expressions of personal style. Throughout centuries of changing fashion trends, they have maintained their relevance by adapting to contemporary tastes while preserving traditional craftsmanship.

Whether chosen for their family significance, artistic merit, or simple functionality, cufflinks continue to offer men a refined way to complete formal attire and express individuality within the constraints of conventional dress codes. As long as formal shirts with French cuffs remain in men's wardrobes, cufflinks will continue their role as both practical fasteners and personal statements.

Alex von Kliszewicz

References

Bennett, J. (2021). The Gentleman's Guide to Formal Accessories. Oxford University Press.

Chapman, R. (2020). "The Etiquette of Men's Jewelry in Contemporary Fashion." Journal of Fashion Studies, 34(2), 118-132.

Davidson, H. (2019). Men's Accessories Through the Ages. Cambridge Historical Press.

Harris, P. (2019). "Material Culture in Men's Jewelry: An Analysis of Cufflink Design." Material Culture Review, 89, 45-67.

Harrison, M. (2021). Collecting Vintage Men's Accessories. Collector's Guide Publishing.

Krause, F. (2018). European Centers of Jewelry Production. Berlin Art Press.

Lambert, C. (2016). "Cartier's Contribution to Men's Jewelry Design." International Journal of Design History, 28(3), 215-230.

Morgan, T. (2017). The History of Men's Fashion Accessories. Yale Fashion Studies.

Munn, G. (2015). Fabergé and Royal Patronage. London Historical Society.

O'Neill, K. (2023). "The Persistence of Traditional Accessories in Digital Age Fashion." Contemporary Fashion Quarterly, 17(4), 88-102.

Reynolds, S. (2022). Men's Jewelry: Identity and Expression. Harvard Fashion Studies.

Thompson, C. (2020). The Evolution of Men's Shirts and Accessories. Princeton Fashion Press.

Wilson, G. (2018). Social Class and Men's Fashion in the Industrial Age. University of Chicago Press.