The Art of Being a Gentleman, Appearance, Behavior, and Style

A true gentleman is a man who leaves nothing to chance. It is not enough for him to be sure that his clothes are elegant, of the best cut and quality, and in impeccable order.
No, it is important to evaluate the appearance as a whole. For example, is it time to go to the barber, where they will cut or shave so professionally that the chin, treated at home with an electric razor, will seem, to put it mildly, not in line with the standards of decency? And the umbrella - is it folded correctly? A gentleman is used to thinking about this and many other things over breakfast, of course, dressed in pajamas, dressing gown and slippers, while shaving, taking a shower and getting dressed. A gentleman should provide for everything in order to leave the house or club in perfect condition, which should be preserved all day. Not a single button will come off until the evening, his gracefully curled and waxed mustache will not require additional care, and the sparkle in his eyes will not fade.

You can't be almost a gentleman. You either are one or you are not. Standards are set, and they must be met. And it is better not to try to look like a gentleman if you feel that this peak cannot be overcome. The 18th century politician and philosopher Edmund Burke once noted in a letter to a friend: "A king can make a man a nobleman, but he cannot make him a gentleman." Indeed, no wealth and no power in the world can create a gentleman.

The concept of "gentleman" does not refer only to a man's appearance, although this is one of the important conditions. It also includes his manner of behavior. A gentleman in any circumstances and absolutely uncompromisingly follows decency; he instinctively always does the right thing. He will make sure that there is room for all the women and children in a lifeboat, although he himself will go down with the sinking ship. He will never cripple a horse or betray a friend. He understands when a woman needs company and when she needs to be alone. He will always prefer a glass of good champagne to a sea of cheap port. He is always polite, even when faced with rudeness from less worthy people. But remember do not exaggerate the importance of clothing in the life of a gentleman.

As early as the 18th century, London became the leading European fashion center, and from then on new ideas were established on the continent. While the French aristocrats lived at the royal court, the English gentry spent much time in their country estates. Their favorite pastime there was fox hunting, which required a special style of costume. The knee-length frock coat was in the way when riding, so it gradually became shorter. The shirt became shorter accordingly, and the trousers became narrower. The new silhouette was adopted throughout Europe: in France and Germany, the English frock coat began to be called a tailcoat, while the British themselves turned the "riding jacket" into a redingote. Men's costume changed throughout the 18th century and eventually included a tailcoat jacket, shirt and trousers. Bright fabrics were only replaced at the end of the 19th century, which was very easy to explain. The natural colors of the aristocratic clothes for hunting and riding were absolutely unacceptable in the city with its dirty roads and soot from countless coal-fired stoves. Some unknown champions of the new, who wanted to wear comfortable redingotes in the city, came up with the idea of sewing them from dark material. It is to them that we owe the appearance of the modern suit. So anyone who finds a dark suit stiff and formal can console themselves with the fact that in a sense it is simply a dark version of country clothes. Another lesson to be learned: dressing like a gentleman means spending not only time but also money. Investing in quality clothing usually entails further expenses. A person who puts on a really good pair of shoes for the first time will certainly cast a critical eye over all his clothes. And he will certainly want to buy a good suit, which will require matching shirts and ties. This process usually takes several years. The wardrobe must be improved, like the furnishings of the apartment. This is an extremely personal process that can and should lead each of us to our own style. Because, as already mentioned, clothing is a calling card of personality.

A tailored tweed jacket is as appropriate for the weekend as a pair of expensive shoes from Sperry, which went down in history as the first brand of specialized footwear for sailors. Thanks to it, the term "Topsiders" was added to the lexicon of fashionistas. This word means "one who stays on the upper side," implying the side of a yacht - this is what the silhouette of a sailboat in the Sperry logo suggests, with chinos from the Polo collection by Ralph Lauren and a blazer from Gieves & Hawkes. So, dressing like a gentleman does not mean being a stubborn conservative. Innovations that have proven their importance and do not look provocative are gradually penetrating the international style canon in London, Milan and New York.

Sources: Burke, Edmund. Letter to a friend, 18th century.

Alex von Kliszewicz